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It’s a positive thing, in general, that seafood is seen as a cut above other proteins. Shrimp and smoked salmon aren’t at the dinner table every night, but beef, pork and chicken tend to be.

The battle for the center of the plate has always seemed stacked by the fact that, pound-for-pound, other proteins are cheaper.

That’s not altogether true. Certainly there have been steady rises in seafood prices over the past few years, but statistics on other proteins show that their costs are jumping sharply.

“Despite