When Seasons 52, Darden's latest restaurant concept, debuts next week, diners will find a trendy eatery that features a menu of entirely lower-calorie foods -- a new direction for the Orlando company that could be a gamble.

Every entree, from the filet mignon to the char-crusted pork tenderloin, will be less than 475 calories, while appetizers and desserts are less than 250. Menus also will change weekly to represent seasonal tastes and product availability. For instance, when the restaurant opens to the public on Feb. 24, Florida strawberries, Maui onions, Delta asparagus and Comice pears are on tap as featured seasonal items.

The concept is a bold move for Darden, a $4.4 billion-a-year company with about 1,200 restaurants, experts say. Billed as a "casually sophisticated fresh grill and wine bar," Seasons 52 is a step in a different direction for the Orlando-based parent company of casual-dining mainstays Red Lobster, Olive Garden, Bahama Breeze and Smokey Bones BBQ.

"It's a very forward-looking and strategic concept on their part," said Mike Carney, a restaurant analyst with Dallas-based Stephens Inc. "But it's also risky. Darden has done a good job of staying ahead of competitors in the past and growing niche markets . . . Is this restaurant another Red Lobster or Olive Garden? I don't know. Nothing has been done like this before."

Although the dinner-only Seasons 52 is considered a moderately priced casual eatery -- entrees cost between $7.75 and $19.75 -- its atmosphere, decor, menu selection and portion sizes are more reminiscent of a fine-dining restaurant, experts say.

The changing menu and introduction of lower-calorie meals also are nontraditional features. Even its location on Sand Lake Road and Dr. Phillips Boulevard near tony restaurants such as Roy's, Bonefish Grill and the Samba Room suggests it's more upscale.

Garlic water, not butter

The style reflects a recent trend in the restaurant industry -- the growth of upscale or upmarket casual-dining restaurants.

Sales at casual-dining restaurants are up about 11 percent since 1981, according to Technomic Inc., a food industry research group. Restaurants that offer "varied menus" are up 15 percent, compared with just a 3.8 percent growth at midscale restaurants, such as family steakhouses.

While diners have already started to embrace upscale casual eateries, such as P.F. Chang's China Bistro, Houston's and The Cheesecake Factory, there aren't any chain restaurants with menus made up entirely of lower-calorie foods.

To pull off the concept, Darden enlisted the help of a nutritionist. Chefs Clifford Pleau and Toni Robertson also have worked to create a master list of recipes that use garlic water instead of butter or oil and maximize the flavor of fresh vegetables, fruits and seafood.

"Healthy casual dining is a trend that could take off, especially as Americans become more aware of their eating habits," said Carney, the restaurant analyst.

Darden officials also cite the increase in health club, spa and gym memberships, the aging baby boomer population and growing concerns about obesity as trend indicators working in their favor.

"We have worked on this concept for several years," said Blaine Sweatt, president of Seasons 52 and head of Darden's new business division. "There's a market for fresh and flavorful foods that also happen to be lower in calories, especially as people begin to take personal responsibility for what they're eating."

Darden officials are careful not to pigeonhole the new concept as a health-food restaurant but are offering it as a casual-dining alternative for customers who want sophisticated and fresh foods.

2-ounce desserts

The idea of nutritious food in a restaurant setting is not new. Consumers have accepted healthy fast-food options, with Subway Sandwich Shop and its "Subway diet" marketing campaign as a standout example. Many casual restaurants also have added a few low-fat selections to their menus.

However, despite this trend, both fast-food and casual-dining restaurants have continued to beef up portion sizes on all their meals.

Expect the portion sizes at Seasons 52 to be smaller, which could hurt sales, some experts say. The filet mignon, for instance, is only 6 ounces, and desserts are served in 2-ounce portions. The Cheesecake Factory serves a 12-ounce filet mignon, while Houston's is 10 ounces.

"American consumers have gotten used to getting two meals for the price of one; it's the doggie-bag effect. They feel like they're getting their money's worth," said Hil Davis, an analyst with San Francisco-based Thomas Weisel Partners. "That's been the biggest complaint of fine-dining restaurants. Customers love the food, but don't get enough of it. A restaurant doesn't want their customers to leave feeling hungry."

Doug Armantrout, publisher of the Chain Account Menu Survey Inc., said the Seasons 52 concept is great in theory but could have difficulty overcoming consumer preferences. Customers tend to want to splurge when they eat out, he said.

"There are people out there who say, 'I try to eat healthy day-to-day, but if I'm going out for a nice dinner on a Friday or Saturday night, then to hell with nutrition," Armantrout said. "The health factor becomes less important in social settings."

Even with the smaller portions and menu differences, Darden is confident that the Seasons 52 concept could become the company's fifth chain concept.

"Obviously Darden is in the business of creating $2 billion brands," Sweatt said.

Although experts agree it is impossible to predict just how consumers will accept the fresh menu and healthier food, they admit that Darden has surprised them in the past by capitalizing on niche areas and growing business.

'Willing to take chances'

"The whole industry has called Darden crazy before," said Chris Muller, associate professor and interim director of the Center for Multi-Unit Restaurant Management at the University of Central Florida. "They were the first to do Italian, the first to do seafood, the first to do Caribbean. To their credit, they are willing to take chances and are really good at identifying new trends.

"Plus, there will be a strong emphasis on quality at this restaurant," Muller said. "Quality can also equal value."

Despite Darden's success building Red Lobster and Olive Garden into brand names and launching Bahama Breeze and Smokey Bones BBQ, the company is not without mishaps.

In early 1990, the company introduced China Coast, an Asian-inspired casual-dining restaurant. The chain expanded quickly, growing from three to 50 restaurants in just over a year. By 1995, however, Darden closed the restaurants.

Sweatt blames strategic mistakes for China Coast's failure but points to Darden's success in identifying a trend. At the time, China Coast was the first casual restaurant to serve Asian cuisine and industry experts were worried Americans wouldn't want it.

"The research we did for that project was still valid," Sweatt said. "Look at P.F. Chang's; they are doing quite well in today's market."

Copyright © 2003, Orlando Sentinel

Will the market accept Darden's new low-calorie restaurant concept?