The U.S.-based International Seafood Sustainability Foundation (ISSF) ticks many boxes as a modern conservation body: it is backed by the World Wildlife Fund (WWF), conceived jointly with industry and encourages debate from all levels of the seafood sphere.

Unlike its name -- conspicuously lacking the very word that best describes its focus -- the underlying message is clear: all tuna in our oceans should, one day, be harvested sustainably.

Nevertheless, goals for 2010 are somewhat more difficult to pin down. “There are so many spokes in the wheel of this issue that it is hard to say one is more important than another, though some are more urgent than others,” said Mike Crispino, communications manager, enigmatically.

“Progress