The good news? Global seafood consumption rose 122 percent between 1990 and 2018, according to the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization.

The bad news? Over that same period of time, seafood sales at US supermarkets remained at an average of 1.5 percent of total store sales, roughly one-tenth that of meat.

I cannot buy chilled seafood at a national supermarket chain 20 times in a row without at least one poor experience.