Sustainability: the word dominates the industry. It is the subject of a million corporate reports, a running theme in a thousand sourcing documents and at the heart of hundreds of certifications. It grants the funding for lengthy research projects, justifies the invention of expensive technology and a few even more expensive hires, and God forbid you don’t mention it every five seconds in your conference presentation.

It means feed, it means traceability, it means environment, disease-control, responsible sourcing. But not nearly often enough does it mean people.

A few months ago I wrote a column about how old the aquaculture industry was getting.